Jack Tyler's Mexico

Mazatlan’s Estrella del Mar Is a Shining Star in the Efforts to Save and Protect Sea Turtles.

2012-01-18T15:15:00.000-06:00

A Mazatlan Beach Resort Community is Making a Big Difference

Mazatlan, a historic town of approximately one-half million people is at a point in its maturity as a beach resort in the Mexico tourism world reminiscent of where Puerto Vallarta was in her glory days in the late 60’s and 70’s. It is, however, historically and culturally unique in Mexico and draws her personality from strong and rich immigration from countries, in addition to Spain, such as Germany, in this case. Today, Mazatlan’s economy is anchored by many industries... in addition to tourism. It is a major fishery and accounts for a huge portion of Mexico’s shrimp industry. Mazatlan’s strong economy includes income from world-renowned Pacifico Beer, Marino coffee, and Latin America’s largest tuna processing plant. Key to merging a manufacturing/industrial economy with the tourism industry is that the major industries that boost Mazatlan’s economy and raise the percentage of locals employed outside of the tourism industry is the fact that the major industries are mostly well-known consumer products... such as Pacifico Beer, rather than car parts. Best of all, for those of us in southeast Texas, Mazatlan is a short 2 1/2 hour flight from Houston on Continental/United Airlines.

A mere forty-five minutes south of Mazatlan’s romantic historic district and her vibrant Zona Dorado (Golden Zone) hotel district is what could be the epicenter and most successful of all efforts along Mexico’s Pacific coast to protect the sea turtle (Lepidochelys olivacea species). Established in 1998, the Estrella del Mar Turtle Sanctuary was created with the single goal of protecting and conserving the sea turtle. Just as significantly, the sanctuary is part of the 3.5 miles of beach habitat at the luxurious golf and beach resort, Estrella del Mar, a development built to live in concert with its natural environment.

Hotel guests and property owners enjoy world-class dining

The Wyndham Las Villas Resort offers the level of luxury expected on a Mexico beach resort (and a Wyndham resort) vacation, in addition to a convenient spa and world-class dining. More than merely living in concert with the environment, the developers have made a substantial commitment to proactively lead in the preservation of the sea turtle.

Every summer the Olive (Ridley) sea turtles return to their native beaches to lay their eggs. Turtles venture from hundreds of miles away to return to the place of their birth to lay their eggs, a ritual that has occurred for thousands of years. Watching this phenomenon occur on my trips to Mazatlan for years has been an amazing experience, as the turtles literally come up on the beach at night and lay their eggs within feet of the nest they were born in! By safe guarding the nests and hatchlings each year, Estrella del Mar’s protection program has dramatically increased the number of mother turtles and their resulting off-spring. Turtles are the last living representatives of the "Jurassic Period" and scientists can trace these creatures to the days of the dinosaurs. Unfortunately, many of the world's beaches are now full of developments as man continues to encroach on the turtle's habitat. This has significantly reduced the reproductive success of turtles to such an extent that sea turtles are in danger of becoming extinct.

Robert Trent Jones Jr. 18-hole championship golf course

This 816-acre gated community with lush tropical landscaping is one of Mexico's best kept secrets. With a Robert Trent Jones Jr. 18-hole championship golf course and boasting 3.5 miles of pristine beach, this resort hotel and spa offers opportunities for vacation visitors, as well as home or condo ownership not seen elsewhere in the Mazatlan area.

Estrella del Mar's resident marine biologist, Erndira Gonzalez Diego,

prepares for her first nest search of the night.

We all like to visit resorts that are environmentally conscious... but the Wyndham Las Villas Resort at Estrella del Mar has taken eco-consciousness to a new level for a luxury resort/spa/hotel. In concert with local city, state, and federal agencies, local media, local school children and even the resort’s owners, guests and staff, a remarkable track record of results has been established. When the program began in 1998 fewer than 10,000 turtles were hatched and released. Last season this number reached 189,000. You see, Estrella del Mar’s resident marine biologist works tirelessly to locate turtle nests as soon as the female lays her eggs (usually 100 to 125 eggs in each nest) in the sand on the beach.

The love, care and delicate treatment of the eggs in the

harvesting process virtually every night is inspiring.

This means multiple trips daily along the 3 ½ mile stretch of beach designated as a sanctuary. The only clue to the location of the nests is usually the tracks in the sand made by the female as she makes her way from the surf to the location of her own birthplace on the beach. Nests are carefully located and measured and the eggs are removed to be placed in the facility’s incubator room for the 45 days needed for hatching. After hatching, the young turtles are released at the beach locations and times most advantageous for their protection from predators as well as scavenging humans. Human activities including hunting and killing, collection of eggs for consumption, and encroachment and destruction of sea turtle habitat have drastically reduced the numbers of sea turtles. Fortunately, the developers of Estrella del Mar have set an example of how man can coexist with nature.

Local school children frequently participate in the egg releases

to learn about the program to save sea turtles.

For guests who would like to participate in this program, there is a release every afternoon that guests and local school children frequently participate in. The feeling that you get when you release the turtles carefully on the beach and watch them with pride as they make their way toward the setting sun (and an unsure future) is one you will never forget. I was also lucky enough to take a four-wheeler trip up and down the beach to harvest eggs from 9:00 p.m. until long after midnight with Erndira Gonzalez Diego, Estrella del Mar's resident marine biologist. The love, care and delicate treatment of the eggs by the two-person crew that harvests the eggs virtually every night is inspiring and guests are assured that this is far more than a show for tourists... it’s a passion and something that goes on with a life of its own regardless of the hotel guests and the home and condo owners enjoying the luxurious surroundings and the lush Robert Trent Jones, Jr.-designed golf course.

It's a wonderful experience to golf along the beautiful

Pacific Ocean at Estrella del Mar.

Seven holes on the course, by the way, stretch along the beautiful white sands of the Pacific beach... and golfers are sometimes unaware that humans and sea turtles share this pristine beach in a symbiotic relationship that has saved hundreds of thousands of these beautiful sea creatures.

Wyndham Las Villas Resort at Estrella del Mar offers packages which also allow visitors to participate in the turtle release/protection program for as little as $61.00 per day. Many Americans, including Houstonians, have chosen the condos and home sites at Estrella del Mar to spend the rest of their lives living “the good life” while leaving this world a better place.

Direct Line to Resort (US): 888-587-0609

Direct Line to Resort (Canada): 866-703-7161

Direct Line to Resort (Mexico): 01-800-PAR-GOLF (727-4653)

Fax: 669-982-3420 or 011-52-669-915-8300 (from US)

Email: info@estrelladelmar.com Web: www.estrelladelmar.com

KM. 10 Camino Isla de la Peidra, Mazatlan, Sinaloa, Mexico CP. 82267

The REAL Caesar's Salad... Its History and Recipe

2011-10-27T14:42:00.001-05:00

Caesar's Restaurant in Tijuana, Mexico

Over in Houston, Texas (una colonia de Mexico), there is an annual competition to create the "Best Caesar Salad" in the city. That would be a significant feat, I would think, in a city boasts that nearly one-third if its population is Hispanic... and most of those are Mexican-American. With all of the excitement and buzz that accompanies this fun and popular 27-year-old competition, I thought I would remind readers about just what a Caesar’s Salad is, as well as talk about its history (and provide you with the recipe to make the original Classic Caesar’s salad as it is still prepared today at Caesar’s Restaurant in Tijuana (where it was invented). The Caesar's Salad IS, after all, possibly the most popular Mexican dish in the world. It is notable in the competition in Houston, that with all of the entries in the 2011 event, there were only three entries in the "classic" division, which should adhere to the recipe and the spirit of the original... and the winner in the division (as tasty as it was) used the restaurateur's "old family recipe". What's wrong with using the Cardini family's "old family recipe"?

Caesar Cardini from a photo on the

wall at Caesar's Restaurant

The authentic Mexican dish served in the most non-Mexican restaurants in the U.S. is also the authentic Mexican dish served in the fewest Mexican Restaurants in the U.S.!

Here are some facts about what is commonly called the “Caesar Salad” today:

·The salad was created in the kitchen of Caesar’s Restaurant in Tijuana, Mexico, ca. 1924 by Caesar Cardini, an Italian immigrant who actually lived in the San Diego, California area.

he salad was originally named the Aviator’s Salad.

·The salad was/is properly called “Caesar’s Salad”... not the “Caesar Salad”.

·There were no anchovies in the original Caesar’s Salad!

·The Caesar’s Salad was originally served as “finger food” and is/(should be) served with whole Romaine lettuce leaves, to be eaten with the fingers. Many restaurants today serve the salad with the leaves torn into bite-sized pieces to be more eater-friendly.

While I noted with interest the fact that as I traveled all over Mexico the past four decades writing about regional cuisines of Mexico, that of the many more-upscale restaurants there served Caesar’s Salads, I didn’t really know why. I have always enjoyed them, but just moved past them in Mexico in favor of “Mexican food”. When I studied the history of the salad, years ago, I promised myself that I would, at some point, enjoy the salad in the restaurant where it was created.

Armando Villegas makes the Caesar's Salad

at Caesar's Restaurant.

As part of a culinary tour of Baja California Norte, I was investigating a “trend” in Baja Mexico called “BajaMed Cuisine” (I’m not convinced the "trend actually exists, as such), but that’s another story) and was fortunate enough to visit Caesar’s Restaurant in Tijuana.Under the watchful eye of long-time manager, Jorge Chavez, I was taught to make the original authentic “real deal” Caesar’s Salad as it has evolved ever-so-slightly since the 1920’s. I use the original recipe and technique when I make my own salads and I use the classic salad as a benchmark to judge “Caesar Salads” in restaurants I visit.

Small Caesar Salad prepared by Armando at Caesar's

Before I share the recipe and technique, here’s the quick history of the salad. This "history" varies from telling to telling, by three or four years... but is pretty close. During prohibition, restaurateurs in southern California were hurting from lack of liquor sales in their restaurants... and, frankly, those restaurants near the Mexican border were hurting for customers, also. It was more fun to cross the border into Mexico, where alcohol was legal, and drink, dance and dine there. Caesar Cardini, a restaurateur from Italy in San Diego, decided to open a restaurant in Tijuana to take advantage of the laws there.The restaurant was very successful and had a large American clientele. One night in 1924, some WWI aviators crossed the border to party in Mexico. Nearing closing time, the kitchen was out of many of the items that they would normally use to make light snacks and they threw together a “finger food” salad from ingredients that they DID have in the kitchen. It was a big success and was requested on subsequent visits by pilots and aircrews, who dubbed it the Aviator’s Salad. While details vary, there are a few givens acknowledged by the family of Caesar Cardini. There was no raw egg used in the earlier versions of the salad, but the ingredient became part of the salad in the early history of the salad. Eggs are now used in Caesar’s Salads, but they are coddled (boiled for one minute for safety). There were no anchovies in the early salads and the slight flavor of anchovy came from the addition of Lea & Perrins, which has anchovies in it. There are stories that Caesar’s brother, Alex, was first to add anchovies, but no one knows for sure. When I was taught to make it in Caesar’s, we used anchovies. It is said that Alex first added egg to it. Here’s how it is made today:

MY Caesar’s Salad made from

the recipe (below).

For the Croutons:

·1 baguette French bread slices (1/2 inch thick).

·Fresh grated parmesan cheese.

·Infuse 1 cup olive oil with 6 cloves garlic. This will be used to drizzle or brush on French bread slices for croutons. Set it aside.It CAN be done the day before, but olive oil with garlic in it MUST be refrigerated overnight.

For the Greens:

·3 medium heads of Romaine lettuce – washed, DRY and chilled.

·2 to 3 tablespoons wine vinegar

·The juice of one lemon or Mexican lime

·1 or 2 one-minute coddled eggs

·Course freshly ground pepper

·Salt

·Dash of Worcestershire sauce

·6 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

·Whole anchovies for garnish, although I was taught to crush a couple of anchovies in the dressing.

DIRECTIONS

To Make Croutons:

Preheat oven to 225 F. Slice bread and spread it out on a cookie sheet. Pour small amount of garlic-flavored oil over cubes. Dry in oven for 2 hours. Sprinkle croutons with grated Parmesan cheese. Store in jar or a tightly sealed zip-lock baggie and refrigerate to keep crisp.

Prepare the Romaine:

Wash 24 hours ahead if possible. Dry and refrigerate. The classic/original salad is served with whole smaller leaves, but sometimes, larger outer leaves are torn into 2-3 inch pieces, if meant to be eaten with a fork (I serve very small heart leaves, whole). Set the leaves aside.

To Prepare the Salad:

In a large salad bowl, chilled if possible, drizzle about 1/3 cup garlic infused oil over vinegar, lemon juice and eggs. Sprinkle with fresh pepper. Season with salt and dash of Worcestershire. Add the cheese. Add the leaves last and toss to coat with dressing.

2011 Gran Fiesta Amigos de Mazatlán

2011-08-07T08:15:00.061-05:00

Gran Fiesta Amigos to Kick Off Fall Travel Season in Mazatlán

October 31st to November 3rd!

Nicknamed “The Pearl of the Pacific”, Mazatlán has long been a favorite Pacific beach destination for me, as well as many others who want to get away from the tired over-crowded tourism centers around Mexico. Many of those who celebrate the uniqueness of this seacoast town have gathered there annually for 17 years as Mazatlán spotlights its cultural heritage... its authentic cuisine... its beaches... and its world-class fishing and surfing. The event is the annual Gran Fiesta Amigos de Mazatlán and it will electrify the town from October 31st to November 3rd, 2011. While the 2011 Gran Fiesta Amigos (Big Festival of Friends) is intended to welcome and thank Mazatlan’s travel partners such as wholesalers, tour operators, airlines (American Airlines just launched daily non-stop flights to Mazatlán from Dallas-Fort Worth for an estimated upswing of $15,000,000/annually in tourism revenue and another option for the over 2,000,000 visitors a year), incentive companies, international journalists and tourism dignitaries... but it is the perfect time of the year for all sun-seekers to visit Mazatlán.

Mazatlán has become a world-class surfing destination.

The sunsets in Mazatlan are unmatched anywhere else!

The 17th Annual Gran Fiesta Amigos de Mazatlán is jointly presented by the City of Mazatlán, the Mazatlán Hotel Association and the State of Sinaloa.

“Mazatlán’s rich culture and unrivaled hospitality sets it apart from other destinations.” says Carlos Berdegue, vice president of Mazatlán Hotel Association and Tourism Board. “Visitors here enjoy beautiful weather and Pacific coast sunsets alongside a lively historic center, renowned cuisine and premier resorts. There are also top-ranked spas, championship golf and year-round events. We are committed to showcasing the many sides of Mazatlán and look forward to making the 2011 Gran Fiesta Amigos the best ever.”

Pulmonias are Mazatlan's trademark transportation found only here!

Among the highlights of this year’s celebration are:

Angela Peralta Theater

Old Mazatlán’s neoclassical Angela Peralta Theater and Plaza Machado will be hosting performances and special dinners. There will be displays of Day of the Dead altars, walking tours of Old Mazatlan, boutiques, jazz clubs and art schools.

Immaculate Conception Cathedral

Cruise ships line up in this popular cruise destination

Cliff divers perform several times a day on the malecon.

There will be tours and excursions of nearby colonial towns such as Copala, El Quelite and La Noria. Visitors can also savor authentic regional cuisine (including some of the best seafood in the world), visit local artisans’ workshops, archaeological museums, churches and historical sites dating back to the 1500’s.

It’s not bragging if you’ve done it... and Mazatlan is recognized worldwide by sportsmen (including me) as a first-class sport-fishing destination. We’re talking about big trophy fish like Marlin, Tuna and Sailfish. Golfers recognize world-class golf resorts and courses such as El Cid Golf and Country Club’s Lee Trevino championship course; the Robert Trent Jones-designed Estrella del Mar (which I set out to play... but it played ME like a fiddle); and the new Marina Mazatlán Golf Course designed by David Fleming. Among events at this year’s Amigo’s celebration will be a keynote breakfast presentation on November 1st honoring distinguished travel industry guests and a featured speaker. The breakfast, along with other events at Gran Fiesta Amigos de Mazatlán will be at the state-of-the-art Mazatlan International Center, a destination in itself for business meeting and conventions in Mazatlan.

For more information on attending the 2011 Gran Fiesta Amigos, you may visit http://www.GoMazatlan.com.

Baja California Norte and Rancho La Puerta

2010-12-16T09:17:00.001-06:00

There’s More in Tecate Than Beer!

La Puerta rooms yield spectacular views of the mountains that border Mexico and the US.

Baja California, Mexico. It’s the Mexico you and I didn’t expect… and it’s the Mexico that begins only a few minutes from San Diego, the gateway to Mexico’s surprising northern Baja peninsula. I’ve enjoyed many visits to the southern part of this peninsula... the state of Baja California Sur, and have loved it. Cabo San Lucas, Loreto, Todos Santos, La Paz… I keep going back. A couple of years ago was the last time before this trip that I had entered Mexico through Tijuana (for a conference on real estate investment in Mexico) and I never left my hotel for four days. But this was the first occasion when I have spent much time roaming the “norte”. In the state that holds the seafood and art mecca of Ensenada, the exciting border city of Tijuana, and the beautiful Valle de Guadalupe, heart of Mexico’s wine country, in the town of Tecate lies Rancho La Puerta Spa and Fitness Resort. I was actually in Baja California on a culinary quest to learn more about the current style of northern Baja California/Mediterranean fusion cooking in this area, specifically, Tijuana… but more on that in another article. I lost my focus! Plenty of interesting food to write about in Tecate, too… especially here in the world capital of taco stands! I find it hard to pass up a taco stand in Tecate.

Taco stands dot the streets in Tecate

Life in Tecate revolves around their most prominent business, the Tecate Brewery.

Being male, my definition of a “spa” was a facility of a few thousand square feet nestled in a luxury resort that my wife went to while I was playing golf… but I learned that I was thinking “day spa”. Wandering along the perfectly manicured, yet natively natural pathways through the 3000 acres of this, the mother-of-all-destination-spas, I was amazed that the 2010 Travel & Leisure Reader’s Choice as the World’s Best Destination Spa had escaped my radar. Further confounding me was the fact that this spa has been here, an hour from San Diego, in the town of Tecate, Baja California, Mexico since 1940.

The dining hall at La Puerta is in a comforting natural setting.

Even the art at Rancho La Puerta reminds guests to slow down and reflect.

Founded by Edmond and Deborah Szekely, what is billed as the world’s first destination fitness resort and spa grew to become the premiere multi-day vacation destination spa in the world. Rancho La Puerta offers world-class landscaped gardens, an organic farm, internationally known cooking school, and mountainsides and meadows of great hiking/walking experiences. Not at all a “day spa”, but a sustainable paradise that, with a stay of a few days, guides guests toward a positive lifestyle change with focus on fitness, healthy diet, and the relaxation that comes from the complete luxury spa experience. What a nightmare… here I, a travel blogger/writer, am in this place without Sally and I have to write something about it that she will certainly read. Maybe I should think about playing it down?

Most of the facilities and lodgings are sprinkled amidst world-class gardens and vineyards. Probably the world’s first “eco” resort, the Ranch practices sustainable organic gardening and resource conservation, and leads the way in environmental protection and education efforts in the region. Within walking distance, their organic farm, Rancho Tres Estrellas, grows acres of the healthy fare guests feast on daily. They produce over 115 different organic vegetables, fruits and herbs for bountiful seasonal preparation. As a food writer, I am trying to figure a way to extend my stay!

Slowly walk the labyrinth to excercise your spacial problem solving skills.

Activities at La Puerta include walks, hikes, Pilates, cooking instructions (I always do this everywhere I go), dance (I always do this when my wife makes me), golf (YAY), tennis, volleyball, swimming, yoga, quiet reflection… or absolutely nothing (YAY)! I took a pre-dawn walk through the farm with kitchen manager, Salvador Tinajero, who was out chosing the seasonable organic produce that’s ripe and ready for today’s meals. It wasn’t special treatment, either… it’s a regular activity for guests.

Salvador Tinajero, the farm manager,
harvests produce for the day's menu.

Birding is spectacular, and another reason to keep quiet to Sally, formerly with the Houston Audubon Society (Lewis’ Woodpecker, Chipping Sparrow, Ruby-Crowned Kinglet, Orange-Crowned Warbler, Lesser Goldfinch, Spotted Towhee, California Thrasher, Phainopepla, and more… they list over 180 species on their website) and hikes may focus on geology and wildlife, or merely oneself. Strolling through colorful lavender and fragrant fields of sage and Artemisia, I scared up bobcats, gray foxes, rabbits, ground squirrels, coyotes, raccoons and prairie dogs. When looking skyward, golden eagles, Swaison’s hawks and turkey vultures were soaring in search of the small game that scurried about in advance of my footsteps. I tried a walk through the labyrinth to exercise my spatial problem-solving skills. Didn’t work… but I understand it does for others.

The beautiful setting keeps you from staying in your room at La Puerta.

Always visible is the beauty of Mount Kuchumaa, a 3800 foot high peak which the indigenous Kumeyaay tribes people knew as the "exalted high place." Occupying Baja California Norte for as long as 12,000 years, they viewed Kuchumaa as the womb of the world, from which all creation came. Only shamans were allowed on the summit of the mountain, which was considered a place of initiation for spiritual leaders, while the valleys, meadows and woodlands below were gathering places for all. Having recently returned from Chiapas, I was mindful of my constant obsession with the Maya and this trip drove home that there are so many diverse indigenous root paths running throughout Mexico. It’s not all about the Maya and the Aztecs.

Acres of seasonal produce grow to serve the guests of Rancho la Puerta.

The spa’s farm is one of the most important features of La Puerta and the part around which much of the healthy lifestyle revolves. The food here is spectacular and the key words are “local” and “organic”. Menus are planned around the seasonal produce from the farm and locally caught seafood. Wines are all from Baja California’s wine country and are locally produced. While La Puerta is not on the coast, it is near the Pacific coast town of Ensenada. Several times a week, buyers from La Puerta start the day at Ensenada's Mercado Negro… an open air seafood market that rivals the huge seafood markets in the Mediterranean… then they rush back to the kitchen with fresh whole fish, such as mahi mahi (Dorado here in Mexico… and no easy feat to haul big ones like I have caught of the Pacific coast of Mexico), tilapia, grouper, yellowtail and red snapper to be carved by La Puerta’s expert chefs into the day’s “catch” on the menu. All dishes are complemented by the freshest ingredients such as extra virgin olive oil, organic peanut butter, nuts and seeds. Menus are planned with the recommendations of Walter C. Willett, M.D., from Harvard's Graduate School of Public Health, author of Eat, Drink and be Healthy.

Would it be a spa without offering expert massages to begin (or end) your day?

As a true destination spa, rates and the plans are for weeklong stays, starting and ending on Saturday and can even include transportation to and from the San Diego airport. There are three organic gourmet meals a day and snacks including a smoothie bar, juices, soups, and vegetables, etc. All beverages with meals are included, also. Guests have full roam of all fitness facilities, the spa, swimming pools, and the library and laundry facilities.

It's not hard to figure why this La Puerta hiker is smiling

An example of how much fun exercise can be is a dance class at La Puerta.

To illustrate the size and scope of La Puerta, it is interesting to note that there are approximately 50 different scheduled group classes per day, with up to five choices of activities per hour including guided hikes and walks and workshops. There are spa and fitness concierges to customize programs and help you gain ease with the many proffered services. I found that nightfall doesn’t necessarily mean bedtime, as there are evening programs and entertainment. There are some a la carte items such as spa services, personal one-on-one training, and cooking classes or demonstrations at La Cocina Que Canta cooking school.

Cooking classes in La Cocina Que Canta teach healthy cooking with
local organic ingredients.

Rates for a weeklong stay at La Puerta range from approximately $3000 to $4000 per person. Tipping at La Puerta is truly optional… there is NO service charge. I found that made me want to tip, though. Clever.

By the way, should you elect to use the available pickup from the San Diego airport and the return to same at the end of your visit, you will find that the infamous hour-long waits at the U.S./Mexico border are not to be suffered by you. Mexico is heavily pushing medical tourism and that includes the ability of facilities like Rancho la Puerta, as well as hospitals and clinics, to drive you right up to the border in a special lane bypassing the long lines of cars awaiting inspection to cross to the U.S.!
I promise you, this will not be a vacation from which you will have to recuperate.

Rancho La Puerta Fitness Resort and Spa
U.S. Business Office
11696 Sorrento Valley Road, Suite 203
San Diego, CA USA 92121
858-764-5571 direct line
U.S. Toll Free: 1-800-443-7565
www.rancholapuerta.com
www.discoverbajacalifornia.com
www.ensenada.com
www.tecate.com

Recipes

I brought back recipes of a couple of the delicious healthy dishes served at La Puerta and offer them for you to try at home. Butternut Squash Soup with Caramelized Apple and Rancho la Puerta Baked Vegetable Eggrolls with Ginger Plum Dipping Sauce. Hope you enjoy tring these!

Butternut Squash Soup with Caramelized Apple

La Puerta's rich butternut soup is made from squash freshly harvested on-site.

Ingredients:

(6 servings)

2 pounds butternut squash, halved and seeded
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 tablespoon garlic, minced
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon allspice
4 cups vegetable broth
2 tablespoons agave syrup
Salt and pepper

Garnish:
1 apple, peeled, if desired, and diced

Method:
Pre-heat the oven to 450 F.
On sheet pan lightly brushed with olive oil, roast the squash for 15 minutes. Remove from oven, remove the peel and chop the squash into large pieces.
Heat the olive oil in a large pot and sauté the onion for about 5 minutes or until translucent, then add the garlic and continue cooking for another minute. Add the cinnamon, allspice, squash, vegetable broth, syrup, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, and then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook, covered until the squash is soft. Let it cool for 1 hour.
When cool, puree the soup in a food processor in batches. Pour through a fine strainer and re-heat over low heat. Check the seasonings and adjust to taste.

While the soup is re-heating, sauté the diced apple in a teaspoon of olive oil until golden brown.

Serve the soup with a few bits of apple on top as garnish.

Rancho la Puerta
Baked Vegetable Egg Rolls

Ingredients:
12 - 14 egg rolls

12-14 egg roll sheets
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons ginger, minced
1 tablespoon garlic, minced

2 cups domestic mushrooms, sliced
2 cups shiitake mushroom, sliced
2 medium carrots, julienne
½ medium onion, sliced thin
1 large red bell pepper, sliced thin
2 cups shredded cabbage
1½ cups bean sprouts
1 cup of celery, sliced

¼ teaspoon chili flakes
1/3 cup light soy sauce
Fresh-ground black pepper

Ginger-Plum Dipping Sauce

2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon agave syrup
1 fresh red chile pepper, seeded & minced
1 tablespoon fresh ginger root, grated

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
4 prunes, re-hydrated in 1 cup simmering water
2 tablespoons sliced green onion, including green stem

1. Combine the garlic, agave, red chile, ginger and lime juice in a small bowl.
2. Bring the water to a boil and add 4 dried prunes, reduce to a simmer and cover. Simmer the prunes for about 5 minutes, or until very soft. Remove from heat and cool.
3. Add the prunes and their liquid to the ginger and lime mixture and transfer to a blender. Puree until smooth.
4. Serve the dipping sauce in small bowls with a few slices of green onion in each bowl.

Method for the Egg Rolls:

1. Preheat the oven to 350 F
2. Sauté the ginger and garlic in oil until nicely browned. Add the vegetables and sauté for 5 minutes. Do not over cook, the vegetables should remain slightly crispy.
3. Add the chili flakes, soy sauce and black pepper, cooking for 2 minutes more. Set aside to cool.
4. Lay an egg roll sheet on a dry surface. Place1 heaping tablespoon of stuffing on the bottom third of the sheet, Brush a little water along the edges and roll up like a burrito.
5. Spray a sheet pan with olive oil and put the rolls on the pan. Lightly spray the rolls with olive oil and bake for 25 minutes at 350F.

Chiapas … A Paradise for Tourists,

2010-10-25T11:14:00.007-05:00

but Definitely NOT “Touristy”!

Video courtesy of the State of Chiapas.

A street in San Cristobal de las Casas’ historical district is filled with locals and visitors.

I’m frequently asked, by many who read my articles about Mexico, “Where can I go in Mexico that’s not “touristy?” Well, after you read this, you will know. Not that I, personally, don’t like those destinations in Mexico that cater to tourists, because I love all of those places (after all… I’m a tourist). Chiapas is bordered by the states of Tabasco to the north, Veracruz to the northwest, and Oaxaca to the west. To the east Chiapas borders Guatemala and to the south, the Pacific Ocean. Having traveled extensively in Mexico for several decades, I am amazed that there still is an area… a state… so beautiful, that isn’t heavily traveled by tourists. Mountains… valleys… rainforests… mist forests… rivers… Maya ruins… lakes… white water rafting… colonial haciendas… this state has it all! Chiapas is a destination that has been difficult to reach, to say the least, up to now.

To visit any points of interest in the state has required a flight from the U.S. to Mexico City (or other destination) then a short flight to Tuxla Gutierrez, the capital city, then a drive to San Cristobal de las Casas, or elsewhere. Palenque was (and still is) more easily reached by flying into Villahermosa in the state of Tabasco, though. Continental Airlines has twice-weekly direct flights from Houston to Tuxla Gutierrez coupled with twice-weekly return flights and as all arriving flights are in the evening, I checked into the Crown Plaza Tuxla Gutierrez for the night. This hotel is every bit as luxurious and comfortable as the others around the world and I nestled in for dinner. The restaurant in the hotel is large and well-staffed and unlike what you might imagine in a Crown Plaza, offers many very authentic typical Chiapanecan dishes, so even thoughyou may be starting a trip deeper into the Maya experience and more jungle adventure oriented, you don’t need to start with “tourist food” as much of the food in Los Helechos restaurant in the hotel is excellent and authentic.

As my ultimate destination was the town of San Cristóbal de las Casas and villages and two Tzotzil towns more easily reached from there,I headed out early in the morning (it’s a nice drive of less than two hours). I checked into the Hotel Ciudad Real Centro Historico, which was (like many other boutique hotels in San Cristobal) an old hacienda. For me, the main attraction here was access to the main historical district square, or Plaza 31 de Marzo (the city was founded on the 31st of March), surrounded by public buildings and enhanced at night by romantic lighting with live music being played in the pavilion (built in 1895).

The main square in the historical district of San Cristobal de las Casas is for relaxing, socializing and romantic strolls.

There are two indigenous villages of these people near each other... San Juan Chamula and Zinacantán. My first stop in Zinacantán was an indigenous home with traditional hats, and other clothing for sale.

Two visitors from the U.S. try on traditional Tzotzil Maya costumes in a Zinacantán shop

In back of the shop, I was treated to some typical foods being made on a comal over a “camp fire” on the floor of the room used as a kitchen. Visitors were also offered a tasting of posh, a relatively potent liquor made from corn and sugar cane.

A young Tzotzil woman makes tortillas on a comal over an open fire in her home.

In Tzotzil Maya Village Zinacantán, life revolves around San Lorenzo Church.

In the village of Zinacantán, the church is huge and adorned with many beautiful retablos as well as by entire walls covered with gold. The Tzotzil Maya people here practice a combination of ancient pre-Spanish Maya religion and Catholicism and while they may be in a Catholic church, they may be chanting to a Maya god in their prayers. After wandering around the church admiring the art on the walls,I left it to head to the village of San Juan Chamula... but looking back over my shoulder as I left the church, I noticed a sign in Spanish admonishing the worshipers to not sacrifice chickens within. Not fully understanding the significance of the sign, I continued to San Juan Chamula (Chamula is the original Tzotzil name and San Juan is the Spanish name) and found there a village where the Tzotzil traditions and language dominate the daily life.

In San Juan Chamula, hundreds of Tzotzil Maya vendors fill the square
of San Juan Bautista church.

It was Saturday… market day… and hundreds of villagers were buying and selling fruits, veggies, chorizo, amber, chicharones, snails, turkeys and fish in booths in the yard of the Church of St. John (San Juan Bautista). Lazy Mexican streets dogs sprawled around everywhere. No police were in evidence, yet pairs of religious"authorities" wandered around the square, receiving the respect of all. They wore traditional Maya costumes and carried black batons over their shoulders as a symbol of their authority. I quickly found that I was not allowed to photograph these authorities, nor could I take photographs in the church.

After I was allowed no photos, I brought home this old postcard.

So, after a search of my camera by authorities and an explanation to them from my guide that I had no place to leave my camera, I was allowed to enter the church. No pews. No altar. Just an expansive marble floor with a few dozen Maya kneeling on the pine needles that were spread all over the floor. Each worshipper had made his/her own "altar" on the floor and had planted as many as a hundred candles with melted wax on the floor. Along the walls were dozens of tables covered with hundreds... no, thousands of candles, which were the only lighting within. Worshipers were chanting prayers to various Maya gods, as well as to their various patron saints, whose statues are in niches around the circumference of the room dressed in traditional Tzotzil garb. No clergy are allowed nor Catholic rites practiced in the church now. Some worshippers had chickens that they were praying over and offering their sacrifice to the gods before wringing the necks of the chickens. They then took the chickens to their homes and cooked them for dinner.

Now, before you go thinking about how “barbaric” this is… consider the fact that we Christians, Jews and many other religious practitioners offer our meals in honor of God as we thank him for the meal in the form of “saying grace” before eating. I submit that there is no difference here except that these very religious Maya offer thanks to their gods before they kill their dinner rather than after they kill dinner, as we do. Most of the celebrants who pray under the guidance of a shaman to remove negative energy or illness, drink posh…. The shaman also spits posh on the person who is ill then passes chickens and eggs over the sick person to absorb and retain the illness.

I have said “Tell me what you know about the Maya and I’ll tell you what you know about Mexico.” I found out on this trip how little I knew about the Maya.

I headed back to San Cristobal after the long day of studying ancient Maya traditions and looked forward to an adventurous day in the morning, visiting Sumidero Canyon, AMIKÚU Park (contact with pythons, ocelots and exotic birds) and some of the obligatory breathtaking zip-lining at the park. More on this must-do-in-your-lifetime trip in my next installment, Chiapas II.

Meanwhile, some useful links are:
http://www.visitmexico.com/wb/Visitmexico/Visi_Chiapas
http://www.visitmexico.com/work/sites/Visitmexico/resources/LocalContent/6333/17/sancr_cg.pdf
http://www.mexonline.com/sccasas.htm
www.ciudadreal.com
www.diegodemazariegos.com
www.casamorado.com.mx
www.casamexicana.com
www.tierraycielo.com.mx
www.plazamagnolias.com.mx
www.crownplaza.com
www.turismochiapas.gob.mx/

Coming in Chiapas II article, a trip through Sumidero Canyon…
and zip-lining, rappellingand animal contact in Amikúu Park.

How to make Tortillas

I asked my Yucatan peninsula food mentor, David Sterling of Los Dos Cooking School in Merida for a recipe for the tortillas I tasted in the Tzotzil Maya home in Zinacantán and he offered a “method”… not a recipe for the way the Maya have been making tortillas for 3000 years. As I can find tortilla “recipes” everywhere through Google, I liked the idea.

There really is no such thing as a true "recipe for tortillas". There is, however, a recipe for nixtamal, but it isn't terribly interesting: 2 k dried field corn kernels, covered with water, add 4 Tbs. calcium hydroxide (used by the Maya for thousands of years!), bring to a boil, then let it sit overnight. Rub the corn between your hands over and over while rinsing to remove the pericarp. When the water runs clear, grind the corn. That is how we make masa, and from masa we make tortillas. You form a little ball of the masa, then pat out on a flat surface and place on the hot comal. As you can see, it isn't really a "recipe", but rather some instructions for the process. Real tortillas have nothing in them other than masa made from nixtamal.

Cobá, a Day Trip from Cancun

2010-08-19T11:39:00.006-05:00

Swimming in cave cenotes is an activity offered by several adventure expedition
companies in the Tulum/Cobá area. Photo by Lori Federico

Cancun is far more than the close-by exciting destination that we all read about in the travel magazines (and my blog, of course). It’s far more than the tiny village that I watched grow into a mega-resort since my first visit 34 years ago. It is the ultimate base in Mexico for exciting “day trips”. So, anticipating what this “day trip” would offer, I awaited the van to transport several other visitors and me into the Yucatecan jungle, expecting an Indiana Jones-type adventure.

How indeed would lunch, in part to be cooked in a bucket on an open fire in the jungle, compare with my posh Cancun hotel breakfast in bed?

Actually, it is one of myriad of day-trips available to broaden the Cancun travel experience. The van pulled up on time, bearing our trim, very fit jungle guides. Together, we motored south along the Caribbean through the Riviera Maya. At Tulum, we headed west, deep into the verdant jungles of the state of Quintana Roo.

A lazy Mexican street dog is interested in Altournative’s jungle van.

The AllTourNative van arrived and I shared my cup of coffee with our sleepy-eyed guide, Jeanette, and we hit the road in the direction of Tulum. Good roads made the two-hour ride into the jungle easy and comfortable, and the informative conversation prepared me for my day’s experience.

A Hanal Pixán altar is offered to a Maya ancestor.

We arrived in the little Maya village of Cobá comfortably after sunrise and met the village elders. Mario then led us on a brief walk. Wild turkeys, chickens and friendly street dogs (God help me… I love Mexican street dogs) lazily stepped out of our path through and around Cobá (named and inhabited by descendants of the ancient Maya archeological site that we would visit later). We visited during the weekend of Hanal Pixán, an ancient purely Maya celebration unique to the Yucatan, similar to El Dia de los Muertos (the Day of the Dead) which is really a Mestizo event celebrated more in other regions of Mexico. Inhabitants busily competed in building spectacular altars honoring their ancestors. The stop and the short tour delayed our rappelling and zip-lining, but were worth the time.

Our wanderings soon ended atop a cliff, nature’s wall at a jungle ravine. There, our eyes slid down a long rope to a clearing near a small pool of water. The rope was about the only way to get down there alive. When Mario asked who would slide first, dead silence screamed back at him from the 30-somethings in our group. Deciding that Alltournative had nothing to gain by publicly killing off travel writers, I stepped to the edge of the cliff, embraced technique instructions, then heroically stepped off backwards, slid effortlessly down the rope and landed on my feet. Amazing. I was followed quickly by the others.

All down, we followed a long trail to a tall wooden platform high in the jungle canopy. A long cable extended beyond sight through the tree tops to a landing pad. Again, Mario asked, “Who’s first?” Again, no one said a word. It was up to me. I figured “I’ve had a good life… why not?” I stepped up and climbed into the safety harness, then suddenly rushed along a sturdy cable through the treetops. My seemingly-super speed slowed as the cable took an upward turn and I enjoyed a comfortable landing. Another “daring” maneuver completed, I found my prior anxiety unwarranted. I would attempt to be the first for everything from now on!

A bucket of corn kernels boils over a campfire

in preparation of lunch.

Hungry and tired from jungle commando tactics, we headed to the primitive outdoor dining room set up to feed the village’s guests. Ready and waiting, the aromas of these rich, colorful Maya-rooted dishes were mouthwatering. Just outside the dining area, a bucket of crushed corn kernels in water was bubbling away on a campfire. Instead of tortillas, this thick corn mush is spread on a hot cooking surface to make empanadas and other traditional dishes.

Achiote, grown in every village yard, liberally provides food with a very light seasoning and a rich, dark, red color. Chicken with achiote, a Cobá favorite, quickly became mine, too.

Achiote Chicken is prepared for guests of the Maya village, Cobá

We all enjoyed both the traditional foods and the respite in preparation for our next adventure.

Reluctantly re-boarding the van, we left the road for a jungle lagoon a quarter mile away. Jostling around on the bumpy dirt vehicle path, I quickly understood why the van had a few dents.

Kayaking through a jungle canal is on the agenda

We reached piers jutting out into the jungle lagoon… a man-made cut for navigation in colorful kayaks through dense vegetation. Drenched from the steady rain that had increased from a morning drizzle, we soon left the kayaks for a steep muddy path to the mouth of the cave. A shaman in a shelter at the cave’s entrance consecrated the group and let the spirits know that we were coming and meant them no harm. After some chanting and burning of incense, we thanked the shaman for his ritual and headed toward the cave opening, noticing for the first time that the shaman had a tip jar.

Achiote is grown in the yards of many families
in the Maya village of Cobá

Crawling feet-first on hands and knees about 15 feet through a narrow passageway, we came to wooden stairs we could follow over 100 feet down into the darkness to what turned out to be a deep, beautiful, clear cave cenote. I heard a splash and saw guide Jeanette swimming in the cool water. Before long, we all refreshingly joined her, then, headed back to the van to bid adios to the Cobá area. Driving back into the jungle on a secondary road, we drove through exotic terrain. Colorful parrots flew everywhere. Spider monkeys replaced dogs as household pets. Jaguars, much revered, held to their jungle safety… and, thankfully, we saw none (but assumed that they were there, as they are protected by the Mexican government).

This temple at Cobá is the second tallest in the Yucatan peninsula.

An hour later, we arrived at the ruins of the ancient Maya city and village namesake of Cobá, one of the oldest Mayan architectural sites on the Yucatan peninsula. Its name meaning “waters stirred by wind”, Cobá thrived during the Classic period (600-900 A.D.), yet may have been previously inhabited for as much as 1,000 years.

The Observatory

A local guide walked us through the first group of buildings (Grupo Cobá) as far as the ritual ball court. Some of us rented bicycles, riding a gravel road a quarter-mile into the jungle to see (and for me… to climb) the main pyramid (the peninsula’s second tallest) and to view the well-preserved observatory.

As dusk quickly approached, we headed back in the van to the 21st century luxury of our Cancun hotel after a full day of adventures that we thought Indiana Jones would have enjoyed and envied.

The well-worthwhile day (12 hours-plus) costs about $120 per person, including lunch, experienced guides and transportation.
For more information, see:
http://www.alltournative.com on the Internet.
http://cancun.travel/en/

It would seem that this would be the perfect place to offer a recipe for an achiote chicken dish, but I just posted one for Pollo Pibil in my last article on Uxmal. Refer to it if the idea of the achiote chicken interests you… however, my resident expert on dishes typical to the Yucatan is Chef David Sterling of Los Dos Cooking School in Merida. He suggests that you try to cook outside of the Maya box and prepare a Crèma de Aguacate. Not truly Mayan, as most of the ingredients are post contact, but it is popular on the peninsula.

CREMA DE AGUACATE
Creamy chilled avocado soup
Nothing quite says “Mexico” like guacamole. And why shouldn’t it, since the avocado is indigenous to southern subtropical Mexico? It has been cultivated since at least 6000 B.C., and in fact Mexico remains the world’s largest producer of the fruit, which is a member of the laurel family. Guacamole itself is an ancient Mexican concoction – from the Nahuatl word ahuacamolli, meaning “avocado sauce” – composed of mashed avocados, chopped tomato, onion and culantro (also known as “long cilantro”, a New World relative of cilantro) much as it is today. You will probably find cilantro with ease in the U.S…. culantro with difficulty… Ubiquitous in every Tex-Mex and Mexican restaurant in the United States and Canada – and even at many bars where it is offered as a snack item – guacamole long ago trumped onion dip as the dip of choice at casual parties. Less known is crema de aguacate – or avocado cream – found throughout Mexico and particularly in Yucatán, where it is served as a thick spread for bread and sometimes a dip for chips. Enriched with cream, it may also be eaten as a soup. We have combined recipes for both crema de aguacate and guacamole to make a refreshing, chilled soup. Topped with crispy tortilla chips and pico de gallo, the scrumptious result is like eating guacamole with a spoon!

• 2 Tbs. (30ml) vegetable oil
• 6 medium tomates verdes (tomatillos), about 10 oz/270g, husks and stems removed, washed and coarsely chopped
• 2 chiles serranos, seeded, deveined and coarsely chopped
• 10 oz (300 g) scallions, or white onion, or a mix of both, coarsely chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 10 cups (2.5 liters) chicken or vegetable stock

STEP ONE: In a stockpot heat the vegetable oil; add the vegetables and sweat them until tender, about 8-10 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a boil; reduce heat to simmer and cook on moderate heat for another 15-20 minutes until tomatillos are completely tender and losing their form.

STEP TWO: Using a blender, food processor or immersion blender, purée the vegetable/stock mixture. Allow to cool thoroughly, then refrigerate. Chill at least 4 hours or overnight.

• 1/4 cup (125ml) lime juice
• 5-6 large ripe avocados, peeled, seeded and cubed
• 1/4 cup (125ml) cilantro, finely chopped, firmly packed
• 1/2 cup (250ml) crema (Substitute: créme fraîche or sour cream)
• Salt and pepper to taste

STEP THREE: As soon as soup base is completely chilled, add lime juice, avocados and cilantro. Purée thoroughly with a blender, food processor or immersion blender. Whisk in the crema. Check for seasonings and return to refrigerator until ready to serve.

TO SERVE: Pour soup into bowls. Arrange fried tortilla strips in a stack in the center of the soup. Top with a spoonful of fresh pico de gallo.

UXMAL, State of Yucatan

2010-07-13T21:31:00.001-05:00

Tell me what you know about the Maya
and I’ll tell you what you know about Mexico.

The Temple of the Magician, believed by Mayans to be built overnight by a dwarf magician.

In an on-going effort to visit all of the dozens of Unesco World Heritage Sites in Mexico, I visited Uxmal on several occasions. It is a ruined Mayan city which, it is assumed, was founded between the year 500 A.D. and the year 700 A.D. I usually only spend a little more than an easy half day in the once-thriving city on each trip here.

Uxmal's Ball Court . . . a familiar fixture in most Mayan cities

Wandering the grounds of this complex, I highly recommend using a guide (available gathered in the entrance area and Information Center). I used guides on my first two visits here and they talked about the history of Uxmal. I can’t imagine how much I would have missed had I done it alone.

The view through a Mayan arch

The hardest thing to describe about Uxmal is the quiet. Not the quietness… but the quiet. As I wandered the compound, I was struck by the overwhelming sense of silence there. There were sounds… there were voices of tourists… there was a haunting sound of wind. But, above and through it all, it was quiet. It was a holy place, I felt. It was as though someone had blown a horn one morning and an entire civilization just got up and left. Eerie.

For nature enthusiasts who enjoy birds, Uxmal is as heavily populated today as it was when the inhabitants were Mayans. Even the non-exotic species here draw your attention more than they do at home. The trees surrounding the Pyramid of the Magician look, from a distance, like they are populated by huge dark bats hanging and waiting. A closer inspection, however, reveals that these are Oriole nests and are homes to the beautiful commonplace Oriole. Everything here takes on a surreal air.

A Turquoise-browed Motmot

Cisterns and wells were used to gather and hold water when this city was viable and a leaning peek into one of those caused me to leap backwards to avoid the escape flight of a frightened Motmot. As an amateur birder, I always love Mexico, as most of my birding experiences are in the United States and limited to species far less exotic than parrots and Motmots. While the colorful Motmot is Nicaragua’s national bird, they are found throughout the Yucatan area and south in Mexico and are characterized by a long slender tail with a heart-shaped feather at the end, which vibrates like a harp.

Motmot photo © Gerwin Filius

The Nunnery Quadrangle

Upon entering the Nunnery Quadrangle (a name given it by the Spaniards), which is a three-tiered government complex, I was struck by what looked like a large black garbage bag abandoned atop the tallest structure in the complex. Moving closer, I added another bird to my list as I approached (unsuccessfully) what turned out to be a huge King Vulture…not a garbage bag.

Climbing and exploring most of the
structuresof Uxmal is allowed.

Climbing is allowed on some structures at Uxmal and some of the most dramatic views of the overall complex may be had from atop the tallest structures. The Gran Pyramide: (The Great Pyramid) is one of those tall buildings I climbed and the view is spectacular, but I will warn those of you with acrophobia that going up is easier than coming down. The old saying “Don’t look down!” doesn’t work when you have to look down to place your feet correctly. Look down or fall down.

It’s not my intent here to educate anyone about the history of the Maya…only to interest you in finding out more about them by traveling there. A visit to Uxmal is fun and instructive. It is only 78 km (48 miles) from Merida on the way to Campeche.

When you leave here, you will understand, far better, the roots and beginnings of the Mexico we love and visit today. However, if you stay in the area and you are lucky enough to meet a Mayan family and be invited to dinner, they might start off the meal with a botana of Sikil P'aak (Sikil Pak), a typical ancient Mayan dip of ground pumpkin seeds, tomato and onion.

Our friend David Sterling of LOS DOS Cooking School in Merida specializes in typical dishes of the Yucatan and he teaches this "slightly kicked up" version of Sikil Pak in his cooking school.

SIKIL P'AAK
Vegetable Dip of Toasted Squash Seeds, Roasted Tomatoes and Chile

ALSO KNOWN AS P'AAK I TSIKIL (p'aak is Maya for “tomato” and sikil means “squash seed”), this wonderful Mayan appetizer obviously dates to the pre-conquest era. The addition of cilantro and garlic are more modern treatments but these only serve to enhance the basically rich flavor. While this dish is delicious any time of year, it was traditionally served in the autumn, when pumpkin seeds were used to celebrate an abundant harvest.

• 4 cups (500g) hulled green pepitas (squash or pumpkin seeds)
• 1 green chile habanero, charred • 3 medium Roma tomatoes, charred on a comal or heavy skillet
• 4 large cloves garlic, charred in a flame or on a comal or heavy skillet
• 1/4 cup (75ml) juice of naranja agria (Also known as sour orange or Seville orange. Substitute: 2 parts fresh lime juice, 1 part each fresh orange juice and grapefruit juice)
• 3/4 cup (200ml) chicken broth• 1 cup (150g) white onion, minced
• 3 Tbs. (15g) cilantro, finely chopped • 1/8 tsp. (.625ml) canela (Substitute: Mexican cinnamon)
• 1 tsp. (5ml) salt

STEP 1 In a heavy skillet over high flame, lightly toast the seeds. Toss regularly during the process. They should be pale brown when finished. Remove toasted seeds to a large bowl. Allow to cool.

STEP 2 Place seeds in a food processor and grind. Continue until the seeds turn to a fine powder that sticks loosely to the sides of the processor bowl. Use a spatula to push the congealing powder back into the processor bowl. Place toasted ground seeds in a mixing bowl until ready to use.

STEP 3 Remove stem, seed, and devein the habanero. Place chile, whole tomatoes with skin and garlic in a blender, along with the juice and broth. Pulse until coarsely blended but not puréed.

STEP 4 Pour the tomato Mixture a bit at a time into the mixing bowl containing the ground seeds. Blend with a spatula until thoroughly incorporated. If necessary, add more of the tomato mixture, mixing, until you achieve the consistency of a dip – thick but not dry.

STEP 5 Add onions, cilantro, canela and salt to taste. Stir and check for seasonings.

STEP 6 Place dip in a serving bowl. Garnish with a sprig of cilantro or a whole habanero if you wish. Serve with homemade Totopos (crispy fried tortilla triangles.)

Iguanas scamper in the rubble and rocks around the temples.

Uxmal on Video

2010-07-10T00:22:00.008-05:00

I found this video of Uxmal with cool music.

YouTube - la ruta puuc: uxmal

The cool music is by Jorge Reyes, the album is Nierika and the song is
Tejido de Suenos (Cola de Venado)

Fairmont Mayakoba Video

2010-06-28T22:03:00.003-05:00

I hope you will enjoy this short video produced by the Fairmont Mayakobafeaturing the Riviera Maya.

World Class Meets World Heritage

2010-06-26T12:01:00.026-05:00

Fairmont Mayakoba/San Ka'an Biosphere

I'm gazing at the crystal clear blue-green waters of the Caribbean and it's occurring to me that young travelers today have everything in the world . . . everything, that is, except perspective. I've worshiped this view of the beauty that is Mexico's Riviera Cancun/Riviera Maya coast for four decades, never tiring of it.

Suites may face the beach and Caribbean or the canals through the mangroves

Guests in canal rooms at the Fairmont Mayakoba can enjoy nature watching

from their balconies.

Visitors may climb the temples and structures in Muyil,

within Sian Ka’an Biosphere

El Castillo, at 17 meters high and topped with an altar,

is the tallest structure at Muyil.

The hotel district of Cancun, lined with hundreds of man-made hotel mini-paradises, fulfills for visitors every fantasy of what this eco-cornucopia of beaches, jungles, resorts and archaeological sites should be… and I was reminded of my first visit to Cancun in the 70’s. I only remember two hotels here then and I was a pioneer in an exotic land! I was struck that it had been untouched for centuries, since the Maya inhabitants of Tulum and Muyil lived and toiled here.History has been kind to the Yucatan peninsula and even in this mega-resort area, eco-tourism rules. Sustainability is the goal of today’s major resort developers and, because of that, I chose the world-class ultra luxurious Fairmont Mayakoba as my base. The huge Mayakoba project now also includes the Banyan Tree Mayakoba hotel, the Rosewood Mayakoba hotel, as well as Mayakoba Residences (permanent residences starting in the lower $600,000’s).

Visitors may float effortlessly on the currents of crystal clear natural canals through the mangroves

The real focus of this visit was the vast UNESCO World Heritage Site, Sian Ka’an biosphere and the Muyil archaeological site, but the Fairmont Mayakoba, that provides its guests bicycle transportation throughout its property has partnered with Maya caretakers and guides to this nature preserve. The food service during the day trip in this wilderness was locally-caught seafood… and the service personnel were tutored by the staff at the Fairmont Mayakoba. Five-star food and service in the wilderness! While visions of blue-crowned motmots danced in my head, I looked forward to what I might discover hiking through this protected million-plus acre paradise.

At the edge of Laguna Muyil is a
wildlife observation tower and primitivedining hall for visitors

Eco-friendly transportation
is provided for guests on the property of the Fairmont Mayakoba

Climbing 100 feet through the canopy to a platform above the jungle, I surveyed nature as it was before man found it. Funny thing… in the middle of over 1,000,000 acres of jungle and my cell phone rang. Nothing important… a friend in Houston. The phone will drop calls in Houston, yet I’m shaken from a dream state high in a jungle canopy by a phone call. I floated crystal clear natural canals through mangroves and dined on ceviche of local seafood prepared by Mayans under guidance of Fairmont Mayakoba professionals who help these native Mexicans manage and make a living from this much-revered cultural inheritance.

I have to mention the Willow Stream Spa at Fairmont Mayakoba, as Sally enjoyed a day there. Located in the heart of a tropical jungle on the area's natural lagoons, Mayakoba is an amazing back drop for a mystical spa journey reminiscent of the textures, colors and scents of the ancient Mayan culture. There are places to rest and reflect close to the elements the Mayans used hundreds of years ago to erect their monuments and temples. They used Conchera, a fossil stone, Sascab as their mortar, natural green marble from Guatemala and the magnificent wood of the Zapote tree. They’ve incorporated the same elements throughout the spa.The Riviera Maya forest spa provides private canopies for the treatment rooms, overlooking the treetops of the mangrove forest. The romantic spa suite is an opportunity to spend time with your loved one with optional side-by-side treatments. The locker areas feature Mexican gardens with outdoor Swiss showers and whirlpools. Sally luxuriated in a full-body chocolate wrap… yummm.

Speaking of “yummm”, a dish that you will find is a regional favorite among the native Maya, as well as the general Mexican population throughout the Yucatan area is Pollo Pibil (a wonderful dish of chicken marinated in achiote and smoked, wrapped in banana leaves). I have noticed, in visiting Maya villages in the jungles that nearly everyone has an achiote tree (annatto) in the yard. The recipe for Pollo Pibil that follows is from a noted expert on regional Mexican cooking, Chef David Sterling who’s Los Dos Cooking School in Merida is the first cooking school in Merida devoted exclusively to the cuisine of the Yucatan. I like Chef Sterling’s recipe because it uses achiote paste, which is readily available in the U.S.

POLLO PIBIL
Pit-Smoked Chicken in Achiote Marinade

TRUE PIBIL DISHES (AS THE NAME SUGGESTS) ARE COOKED IN A PIB – a hand-dug pit in the ground lined with fiery coals and hot stones. Pibes also employ a roof that seals up the hole, which is then covered with earth. Meats cooked in a pib are wrapped in banana leaves, which seals in juices and flavor. The secret of the pib is that its roof locks in heat, steam and smoke, which makes pibil meats so tender and succulent, and gives them their smoky flavor. (Note about this recipe from Jack: I use a smoker with a water pan and wood chips to duplicate the effects of cooking in a pib). For this dish, we have created a stovetop method for achieving a similar result. We have also modernized the recipe somewhat by brining the chicken for a few hours, and by using bone-in chicken breasts instead of a whole bird. You may also use a whole chicken cut into parts.10 servings

• 4 quarts (4 liters) cold water
• 1/2 cup (130g) salt
• 1/2 cup (130g) sugar
• 5 whole allspice berries
• 1 tsp. (5ml) black peppercorns
• 10 chicken breast halves (including skin and bones)

STEP 1 BRINE THE CHICKEN. Dissolve the salt and sugar in the water. Crush allspice and peppercorns in a mortar and pestle and add with chicken to the brine; refrigerate 4-5 hours. After the brining process, drain and rinse chicken under cold water and pat dry. Discard the brining solution.
• 8 Tbs. (120ml) recado rojo (achiote paste)*
• 8 Tbs. (120ml) juice of naranja agria (Also known as sour orange or Seville orange. Substitute: 2 parts fresh lime juice, 1 part each fresh orange juice and grapefruit juice)

STEP 2 MAKE THE MARINADE. Dissolve the achiote paste in the juice. Use more juice if necessary to achieve the consistency of thick cream. In a molcajete or mortar and pestle,
• 1 Tbs. (15ml) dried Mexican oregano leaves (or 1 tsp/5 ml ground), toasted
• 1 tsp. (5ml) cumin, toasted
• 3 large cloves garlic, peeled and charred• 1 tsp. (5ml) black peppercorns
• 1 tsp. (5ml) sea salt

STEP 3 IN A MOLCAJETE OR MORTAR AND PESTLE, coarsely grind the oregano, cumin, garlic, peppercorns and salt. Add to the recado mixture and stir thoroughly to incorporate. Pour over chicken and coat each piece thoroughly. (Note: If using homemade recado rojo, you may omit this step.)
• Banana leaves, cut into rectangles approximately 12 x 18 inches
• 2 green bell peppers, thinly sliced
• 1 large white onion, thinly sliced
• 2 large Roma tomatoes, sliced
• 1 bunch epazote, separated into leaves
• 2 Tbs. (10g) wood smoking chips, preferably mesquite

STEP 4 WRAP THE CHICKEN. Place one breast in the center of one banana leaf rectangle. Garnish with slices of the vegetables and the epazote leaves. Wrap the chicken with the banana leaf as you would a package, and tie with banana leaf spines or kitchen twine to secure. You may cook immediately or refrigerate overnight. Allow to come to room temperature before proceeding.

STEP 5 FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS FOR STOVETOP SMOKING. Smoke 45 minutes, or until a meat thermometer registers 170° Fahrenheit (76° Celsius). Off heat, remove cover and let stand for 10-15 minutes before serving. Serve with Cebollas Encurtidas and Chile Tamulado.*Available in Mexican grocers or the ethnic sections of supermarkets.

STOVETOP SMOKING INSTRUCTIONSYou will need:
• Large cast-iron Dutch oven or roasting pan with lid(NOTE: Because of the intense heat required for this dish, enameled iron cookware is not recommended.)
• Heavy-duty aluminum foil
• 10-12 inch cake rack (Must fit snugly in bottom of pot)

STEP 1 WORKING WITH THE DUTCH OVEN OR ROASTING PAN, line sides and bottom with foil, using two or three pieces if necessary. Leave at least 6 inches of foil extending beyond the edge of the pot. Using a fork or sharp object, cut and tear away a small hole in the foil at the center of the bottom about 3 inches in diameter to expose the pot’s surface underneath. Line underside of lid with aluminum foil and crimp tightly around edges. Create “feet” for the cake rack with balls of foil. The rack should rest about 11/2 inches off the inside bottom surface of the pot.

STEP 2 PLACE THE POT without cover or cake rack over highest heat on stovetop. Heat for 10 minutes. Have banana-wrapped meat at hand. When pan is pre-heated, place smoking chips called for in recipe on the pan’s surface where you cut away the foil. Immediately place rack at bottom of pot. Place meat packets onto rack, spacing evenly and allowing some space around packets so that steam and smoke can circulate. Put lid in place, and crimp edges of foil all around to create a tight seal.
Cook according to recipe instructions.

*******

CEBOLLAS ENCURTIDAS

Red Onions Pickled in Sour Orange Juice

ENCURTIR IN SPANISH MEANS "TO PICKLE." Usually served as a garnish, these pickled onions are delicious enough to eat by themselves! Along with Chile tamulado, cebollas encurtidas are part of the indispensable pair of condiments used on virtually all foods in Yucatán – like salt and pepper are to us. Purists prefer sour orange juice to do the pickling, but expense and the possibility of spoilage mean that most restaurants and take-out stalls use vinegar. Cooks keep big glass jars full of the onions, and replenish ingredients as needed. The garlic and chile may stay in the wonderfully fermenting stew for months.

• 2 pounds (1 kilo) medium red onions, thinly sliced and separated into rings

• 2 cups (500ml) juice of naranja agria (Also known as sour orange or Seville orange. Substitute: 2 parts fresh lime juice, 1 part each fresh orange juice and grapefruit juice)

• 1 Tbs. (20g) coarse salt (sea salt or Kosher)

• 5 whole cloves

• 5 whole pimienta gorda de Tabasco (English: allspice)

• 1 tsp. (4g) peppercorns, coarsely crushed

• 1 Tbs. (15ml) dried orégano Yucateco (Substitute: Mexican oregano) lightly toasted in a comal or heavy skillet and ground

• 1 large chile x’catik (Spanish: güero. Substitute: any “blond” chile such as yellow Italian or banana pepper), charred

• 1 large head garlic, charred

STEP 1 PLACE ALL INGREDIENTS in a large non-reactive bowl. Allow to macerate at room temperature for 1 hour.

STEP 2 REFRIGERATE. Cebollas encurtidas are best when prepared 2-3 days in advance. Before serving, allow to return to room temperature.

NOTE: Cebollas encurtidas will keep well under refrigeration for 1-2 weeks.

******

CHILE TAMULADO

Fiery Habanero Table Salsa

THE BASIS OF THIS FIERY SAUCE IS THE HABANERO – considered to be one of the world’s hottest chiles. It ranks an impressive 250,000 to 350,000 Scoville Heat Units, making it the king of chiles. In recent years, new habanero hybrids have achieved even higher marks, such as the Red Savina, coming in at 500,000 units. But putting aside any macho one-upmanship, the habanero grown in Yucatán is searingly hot, as this sauce proves.
The habanero is Yucatán’s mascot; no meal is complete without a hefty portion. And it is in Yucatán where more of the chiles are grown, consumed and exported than anywhere in the world. This simple sauce is composed only of chile, sour orange juice and salt, all ground together in a tamul – the Mayan word for mortar and pestle.

• 6-8 medium green chiles habaneros (Substitute: Scotch bonnet chiles), charred, stems removed

• 1/4 cup (75ml) naranja agria (Also known as sour orange or Seville orange. Substitute: 2 parts lime juice, 1 part each orange juice and grapefruit juice)

• Pinch sea salt

STEP 1 PUT ALL INGREDIENTS IN A BLENDER. Cover with lid. Process until liquified.

CAUTION: When you remove the lid, step away from the blender and keep face turned. A very potent aroma that can cause you to cough will emanate from the blender.

STEP 2 PLACE IN A SMALL SERVING DISH; cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Mazatlán, The Pearl of the Pacific

2010-05-28T10:15:00.002-05:00

With my current post about the Pulmonias, Banda and Cliff Divers of Mazatlán, I thought that it would be informative to those of you who haven’t been to Mazatlán yet to see this colorful exciting video about Mazatlán: Pearl of the Pacific. If you have 5 minutes and think you can resist buying a plane ticket (you may be wrong)… this exciting video will test your resolve!

Pulmonias, Banda and Cliff Divers – Mazatlán!

2010-05-19T15:08:00.031-05:00

View of Mazatlán from my room in El Cid El Moro

Blogging from the Pacific coast town in the state of Sinaloa, Mazatlán, it occurs to me that this trip will yield at least five future posts (by necessity). Mazatlán has so much to tell you about. So, this is the first of several installments on Mazatlán. There's so much to do here that I keep coming back. I'm struck by the fact that, more than many other Mexican cities, there are some things that are total surprises to many who have never visited Mazatlán. I've been coming here on and off since the 70s and it has grown unbelievably. Riding in a Pulmonia south from El Cid El Moro, the tower of a hotel where I frequently stay, we are traveling along the malecon with the beautiful Pacific on the right. Couples strolling along the malecon (one of the longest in Mexico, stretching from the Golden Zone to beyond Old Town) and taking in the breezes as they pick up snippets of banda music from the passing taxis and pulmonias.

The breezy pulmonia

Oh yes... "pulmonia". That's likely to be just one of the three things I'll talk about in this post that you may not have heard about unless you've been here. Mazatlán has its own unique taxis ... and they are, literally, nowhere else. The golf cart-looking vehicles are wide open and breezy and made only for Mazatlán. The name "pulmonia" was given to this taxi vehicle by locals because they are wide open and the standard taxi car drivers say that you will catch pneumonia in them. They are powered by VW bug engines. As far as I am concerned, it's part of the charm here and they are a MUST for your transportation around town. Fares can be negotiable, but only before you get in and start your trip.

I mentioned "banda" music. Mazatlán and the state of Sinaloa have become famous for banda, a traditional form of music performed with brass (usually a tuba), woodwind and percussion instruments. The instrument most often identified with this type of music is the tambora, a drum covered with animal hide. It sounds sometimes like a cross between Mexican Mariachi music and German oom pah pah music. You see, much of Mazatlán's heritage is steeped in its roots of German immigrants during the gold rush in California. What? Too much to talk about here... more on that when I talk about historic Mazatlán in another post.

Cliff diver takes a plunge

OK... the next unique attraction here is not exclusive to Mazatlán, but if I had mentioned "cliff divers" to you in a general article about Mexico, your mind would have jumped to Acapulco. Well, think again... since the late 60's, Mazatlán's cliff divers have entertained and thrilled visitors several times a day just off the malecon. This dangerous spectacle is performed by daring young men who wait until the perfect moment as the waves fill a small space in the surf and dive into the foamy Pacific among the rocks. What's more, everyone gets a good view, which is not always the case in Acapulco's spectacle. This is another "must" in Mazatlán and every taxi and pulmonia driver will gladly bring you here.

Seafood is king here and I believe that the 50+ year old Bahia restaurant serves the best you can find in Mazatlan. Their very simple Dorado (Mahi Mahi) Ceviche is delicious and a staple of their menu. The recipe follows and the dish in the photo was made by me from that recipe. It is beautiful in its simplicity and is delicious. Enjoy!

While the recipe is from Bahia, the photo is of some I made in Houston using Bahia's recipe:

BAHIA RESTAURANTE CEVICHE:

Ingredients:
-1 1/2 pound to 2 pounds of fish fillets (Dorado / Mahi Mahi)
-1 Small Red Onion (Diced)
-5 Diced Jalapenos en Escabeche.
-Salt & pepper (Your choice quantity)
-Olive oil (Splash / your choice quantity)
-10 Small Limes (quantity will depend on the size of the limes)
-Cilantro (Your choice quantity)

Preparation:
* Dice the fish fillet and place in a container
* Add the onion, jalapenos, olive oil, salt and pepper, leaves of cilantro finely chopped and the lime juice.
* Let the mixture sit and marinate for at least ten minutes (I let mine "cook" in the lime juice for an hour) and it's ready to serve.
* You may add salsa roja (red salsa) also. Serve with crackers or corn chips.

Cerocahui: As Mexican as Apple Pie

2010-04-27T17:47:00.167-05:00

El Chepe entering one of dozens of tunnels

As a child, I rode trains from Houston to Dallas and back many times and just loved it. Those childhood memories drove me years ago to check out that mode of travel in Mexico's largest state, Chihuahua. Ranked as one of the most scenic and spectacular train journeys in the world, the Ferrocarril Chihuahua al Pacifico (El Chepe) train has become my favorite activity in northern Chihuahua and mode of travel through Copper Canyon.

The Mission in Cerocahuí

While I plan to blog about several of my favorite stops along the way through the many tunnels and over the bridges crossing deep gorges from the city of Chihuahua to Los Mochis, I want to start with the little town of Cerocahui on this jouney. A short ride from the train station, this town is a must stop; and I would have to say that the Hotel Mision there is a must-stay, also. Not much choice there, but it would be where to stay if there were a hundred hotels.

Urique Canyon

Cerocahui is nestled on the edge of Copper Canyon's deepest canyon, Urique Canyon. Here in the heart of Tarahumara Indian country, these mysterious Indians (who make their homes only in Copper Canyon area), who number around 50,000, live mostly in caves and primitive stone dwellings and exist mainly by growing corn, beans, herbs, mangoes and various hybrid varieties of Red and Golden Delicious apples. The apples were first brought to this area by Jesuit priests who came here as early as the 1600's to convert the Indians to Christianity. You will be caught up in the beauty and warmth of this small village and, frankly, can walk around the whole town in an hour. I am always intrigued by the electronics shop on the town square with horses tied up at the door. The old mission is inviting and a stroll on the grounds is very relaxing to me.

Horses tied up at the Electronics Shop on the Zocalo

I remember the first time I went through the door at the Hotel Mision. I smelled a familiar aroma immediately; I didn't know it then, but it was Mama Vilma's Tarahumara Apple Pie. Decades ago, when Dona Vilma Barderrama was a young girl attending nun's college in Minnesota, she returned to visit the Balderrama family's hotel in Mision and brought with her a recipe for American apple pie that the nuns had taught her to bake. The cooks at the hotel took that recipe and melded it into a local specialty by using the sweet Tarahumara apples and locally-grown and produced wheat, butter and spices. It became a Hotel Mision signature dessert and has been so for nearly 40 years.

The rooms at Hotel Mision are comfortable

The rooms here have porches facing grape vines in the courtyard from which they make their own wine. On a cold morning, the hotel staff will come by (at your request) to light the wood-burning stoves and warm your comfortable room. This is a time to do without your laptop and phones in the room; but it's not at all primitive. Most of all, be prepared for a comforting hot cup of Mexican coffee and Tarahumara apple pie in the morning (or dessert after dinner).

The Balderrama family graciously provided me with the recipe for that wonderful pie and I am pleased to share it with you..

Mama Vilma's Tarahumara Apple Pie

Mama Vilma's Tarahumara Apple Pie

Base (Shell):

2 cups flour

1/2 cup Shortening

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/4 cup water (2 fl oz)

Filling:

2 1/2 apples peeled and grated

1 1/2 teaspoons of cinnamon

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons butter

1/2 teaspoon of nutmeg

Preheat oven to 400°F

Base (shell) Preparation:

Mix flour with shortening and salt, use a metal spoon to mix, add ice water and knead until a smooth consistency, refrigerate overnight wrapped in plastic wrap. The next day, bring to room temperature, then split into 2 round parts like a balls. Spread with a roller and to the shape of your mold and cut the excess, sealed the edges with a fork, make holes to let it breathe.

Filling

Add ingredients to the mold, first the apple, then the cinnamon, sugar and butter and nutmeg, then cover with the remaining base pie add sugar, make little holes with a fork to let it breathe.

Put the pie into the oven, cover with aluminum foil.

Bake at 400°F for 2 1/2 hours.

Cool it to room temp. Serve warm or cool, with your favorite apple sauce on the bottom for presentation.

Ritz-Carlton Cancun Outdoor Grilling Class

2010-04-08T14:23:00.030-05:00

Well, as it's no secret that I love Cancun, so it's no surprise to anyone that I'm back here again . . . my base for exploring the Riviera Cancun as well as the Riviera Maya. This time I am here to attend Mexican cooking classes at the Ritz-Carlton Cancun's Culinary Center. Don't believe that you have to eat in a hole-in-the-wall restaurant in a remote village to enjoy outstanding Mexican food. For those who would like to take home more than a memory from their visit to Cancun, the luxurious Ritz-Carlton has expanded the scope of its Culinary Center. Guests here learn to entertain and grill with a Mexican flair in the new outdoor Viking Cooking Center. Classes are conducted Monday through Saturday by Chef Rory Dunaway and are guaranteed by me to educate, entertain and inspire.

Chef Rory Dunaway teaches students to grill

On this visit, I attended the class Grilling with a Mexican Flair and Chef Dunaway showed us how to grill marinated Arrachera (which we Texans commonly refer to as "fajitas") and gave skirt steaks a true Mexican twist. In this class, traditional ingredients and flavors from Mexico (Guacamole and Pico de Gallo) are combined with well-known grilled favorites to breathe Latin life into a casual backyard barbeque. I was overlooking the sea and enjoying the Caribbean breezes while preparing my personal grilled favorites on the beach in the Viking Outdoor Cooking Center,

Rappelling in the jungle near Coba

Much (most) of my travel writing is about areas in Mexico such as quaint Mayan villages and little-known mountain resorts. Many would like to believe that you can only experience the "true Mexico" in places like that. I beg to differ. While I love all regions, areas and cultures, I enjoy being in luxurious digs, also. How about sleeping in the lap of luxury at night (Cancun), but heading out in the morning in any one of several different directions and within an hour, or so, you can explore Maya ancient ruins... swim with Dolphins, rappel into a cave cenote, eat lunch in a jungle Mayan village, scuba dive, zip-line through the jungle canopy, or partake of any number of primitive endeavors. For more info:

I offer here recipes for the ultimate Mexican backyard grill fare. Chef Dunaway's grilled Arrachera, spicy Guacamole and tangy Pico de Gallo. Grab some tortillas, some cold cerveza and light the charcoal.

ARRACHERA MARINADE

1/2 Cup Worcestershire Sauce
2/3 Cup Maggie Sauce
2 Tablespoons Lime Juice
3 Tablespoons Vegetable Oil
1 Teaspoon Paprika
Salt and Pepper, to taste
1 Pound Arrachera (skirt steak)

Mix all ingredients together in a bowl and allow Arrachera (skirt steak) to marinade for 2-24 hours before grilling over medium hot flames or charcoal.

PICO DE GALLO

1 1/2 Pounds Plum Tomatoes, seeded, chopped
3/4 Cup Onion, chopped
1/2 Cup Fresh Cilantro, chopped
3 Tablespoons Fresh Lime Juice
3 Tablespoons Jalapeño Chilies, minced seeded
1 Clove of Garlic, minced

1. Mix all ingredients in medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
2. (Can be made 4 hours ahead. Cover; chill.)

GUACAMOLE

4 Each Avocado, peeled and pitted
1/4 Cup Red Onion, chopped fine
1/3 Cup Plum Tomato, deseeded and cut small dice
2 Tablespoons Cilantro, chopped
1 Each Lime, juiced
2 Cloves Garlic, minced
1 Each Jalapeño, deseeded and chopped fine
1 Tablespoon Cumin, ground
Salt and Pepper, to taste
5 Ounces Tortilla Chips, fried

1. Coarsely mash avocados in large bowl.
2. Combine the rest of the ingredients and mix well season with salt and pepper.
3. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve with chips or as a side item.
Serve the Arrachera in a large molcajete or serving bowl and let your guests generously scoop it into a flour tortilla... then top with Pico de Gallo and spicy Guacamole!

Danzon!!

2010-03-23T11:15:00.055-05:00

It wouldn't be Saturday night in Veracruz without Danzon!

Watchtower at old Spanish Fort in Veracruz

On this visit to Veracruz I vowed that I would not miss the phenomenon of Danzon, the Saturday night social event of dancing in the city's main zolaco by a die-hard cadre of mainly middle-to-upper aged ladies and gentlemen. I had missed it several times in past visits, but on this trip, I stayed right on the zocalo at the historic Gran Hotel Diligencias and arrived early Saturday to get a good seat up front and catch some photographic memories. The ladies in traditional white dresses and men in natty straw hats with white slacks and shirts started arriving well in advance of the time of the dance, as this is an event for "regulars" to shine and to arrive early to protect their up-front metal folding chairs and spectator-visible dancing spots. They probably looked carefully at this new gringo sitting up front in their clique. However, when I got my camera out, everyone was happy to oblige my hunger to capture the magic of their Saturday Night Fever. This was just one of the Afro-Cuban inspired traditions that were inspired by the Cuban roots of the people of Veracruz. The sweet, driving sounds of a charanga orchestra (that features violins and woodwinds combining in the cantradanza style), evokes memories of the driving Afro-Cuban rhythms from Havana dance clubs of the 1950's. This seductive Latin rhythm box step dance is hypnotic to watch and it's obvious that this is a Mexican tradition unique to Veracruz, much like the music of their native son Ritchie Valens (called the first Latino rock star) is revered everywhere in this port city. You can't go to a nightclub without paying homage to him by enjoying La Bamba a few times a night.

Another much-revered tradition here in Veracruz is its namesake fish dish... Snapper Veracruz (or Huachinango a la Veracruzana). I snapped a photo of mine at the Mariscos Villa Rica Restaurant and offer a recipe for my readers.

Huachinango a la Veracruzana from the Villa Rica Restaurante

Snapper Veracruz Recipe

Ingredients

1 whole red snapper (1½ to 2 pound), cleaned and scaled with head and tail on.
For the marinade:
4 cloves garlic, chopped
The juice of 2-3 limes
2 tablespoons water
A pinch of ground clove
Pinch pepper

For the Sauce:

Vegetable or olive oil, for sauteí
½ cup of canned chicken stock
1 medium onion, thinly-sliced
2 whole bay leaves
¼ teaspoon of dried oregano
½ cup freshly-made tomato puree (water, tomatoes, and a dash of olive oil)
4 coarsely-chopped plum tomatoes with juice.
5 pickled Jalapenos or Serranos thinly sliced into rings
8 green olives pitted and crushed, plus 12 whole green pimiento-stuffed olives
1 tablespoon of capers
Salt to taste
¼ cup of chopped fresh parsley

Directions

Clean Red Snapper leaving head and tail attached. Score the flesh of the snapper diagonally. In a bowl, combine the garlic, lime juice, water, clove, and pepper to make the marinade. Pour the marinade over the fish and allow the marinade to penetrate the snapper for ½ to one hour.

Summer Solstice at Chichen Itza

2010-03-22T14:23:00.047-05:00

Crowds gather throughout the day at El Castillo (the castle) in anticipation
of the maximum visual effect of the Solstice at around 5:30 PM

One of Mexico’s best-known images is the Temple of Kukulkan (the Feathered Serpent) , or El Castillo, in the ancient Maya city of Chichen Itza. Translated into English from the Mayan language, Chichen Itza means “at the mouth of the well of the Itza”. This Unesco World Heritage site was among the most important Mayan political, commercial and religious centers of the classic period (750-1200 A.D.). I’ve visited this site many times over the years, but it draws more visitors during the Winter and Summer Soltices than any other time of the year. Although I have visited at all times of the year, I thought that a post after the spectacle would be useless to those who might like to go there and see it in person. So, I’m giving you all plenty of time to plan a trip to the area

On the Summer Solstice at approximately 5:30 PM (when I took the photo with this post) the shadow of the Feathered Serpent has slithered down the steps to the base of the pyramid and the illusion is at its fullest.

The most notable structures at Chichen Itza include El Castillo “the castle”; the Observatory; the Temple of the Warriors; the Sacred Cenote (the Well of Sacrifice, where virgins, adorned with gold jewelry, were thrown in as offerings to the Gods); and the Great Ballcourt.

In 2010, the Winter Solstice will occur in the Southern Hemisphere on June 21st and the Summer Solstice will occur on December 21st. Check for specific times of the peak of the experience, as the times are different every year. I usually fly into Merida for a visit to Chichen Itza, but it is also around a 2 ½ hour drive from Cancun. A side trip to the small town of Vallalodid is nice and I enjoy eating there.

Speaking of eating… no trip to the Yucatan peninsula is complete without savoring the delicate broth in Yucatan Lime Soup (or Sopa de Lima). Here is my Americanized version:

Sopa de Lima

Yucatan Lime Soup

Ingredients

Juice of 2 limes
8 corn tortillas cut in 1/8
1 large diced chicken breast
4 cups chicken broth (can be made from 2 -3 cans of a good rich canned chicken broth)
1-2 chicken boullion cubes or a teaspoon of chicken boullion
4 tomatoes chopped or one can of crushed tomatoes with juice
1 yellow onion chopped
2 green chiles optional (serranos chopped)
Jalapenos may be used
1 diced avocado, for garnish
vegetable oil (for frying tortillas)salt and pepper to taste

Directions

1. Fry the tortilla slices in vegetable oil. Drain on absorbent paper.

2. Put the diced onion, in a pot with the oil, saute’ until it is transparent.

3. Add the tomatoes with their juices.

4. Simmer on low heat 20 minutes.

5. Add the chicken, chicken broth, chicken bouillon, lime juice, salt and pepper and chile and simmer until chicken is cooked through.
Garnish with lime and avocado, serve with tortilla chips on the side..