World Class Meets World Heritage

Fairmont Mayakoba/San Ka'an Biosphere

I'm gazing at the crystal clear blue-green waters of the Caribbean and it's occurring to me that young travelers today have everything in the world . . . everything, that is, except perspective. I've worshiped this view of the beauty that is Mexico's Riviera Cancun/Riviera Maya coast for four decades, never tiring of it.

Suites may face the beach and Caribbean or the canals through the mangroves

Guests in canal rooms at the Fairmont Mayakoba can enjoy nature watching

from their balconies.

Visitors may climb the temples and structures in Muyil,

within Sian Ka’an Biosphere

El Castillo, at 17 meters high and topped with an altar,

is the tallest structure at Muyil.

The hotel district of Cancun, lined with hundreds of man-made hotel mini-paradises, fulfills for visitors every fantasy of what this eco-cornucopia of beaches, jungles, resorts and archaeological sites should be… and I was reminded of my first visit to Cancun in the 70’s. I only remember two hotels here then and I was a pioneer in an exotic land! I was struck that it had been untouched for centuries, since the Maya inhabitants of Tulum and Muyil lived and toiled here.History has been kind to the Yucatan peninsula and even in this mega-resort area, eco-tourism rules. Sustainability is the goal of today’s major resort developers and, because of that, I chose the world-class ultra luxurious Fairmont Mayakoba as my base. The huge Mayakoba project now also includes the Banyan Tree Mayakoba hotel, the Rosewood Mayakoba hotel, as well as Mayakoba Residences (permanent residences starting in the lower $600,000’s).

Visitors may float effortlessly on the currents of crystal clear natural canals through the mangroves

The real focus of this visit was the vast UNESCO World Heritage Site, Sian Ka’an biosphere and the Muyil archaeological site, but the Fairmont Mayakoba, that provides its guests bicycle transportation throughout its property has partnered with Maya caretakers and guides to this nature preserve. The food service during the day trip in this wilderness was locally-caught seafood… and the service personnel were tutored by the staff at the Fairmont Mayakoba. Five-star food and service in the wilderness! While visions of blue-crowned motmots danced in my head, I looked forward to what I might discover hiking through this protected million-plus acre paradise.

At the edge of Laguna Muyil is a
wildlife observation tower and primitivedining hall for visitors

Eco-friendly transportation
is provided for guests on the property of the Fairmont Mayakoba

Climbing 100 feet through the canopy to a platform above the jungle, I surveyed nature as it was before man found it. Funny thing… in the middle of over 1,000,000 acres of jungle and my cell phone rang. Nothing important… a friend in Houston. The phone will drop calls in Houston, yet I’m shaken from a dream state high in a jungle canopy by a phone call. I floated crystal clear natural canals through mangroves and dined on ceviche of local seafood prepared by Mayans under guidance of Fairmont Mayakoba professionals who help these native Mexicans manage and make a living from this much-revered cultural inheritance.

I have to mention the Willow Stream Spa at Fairmont Mayakoba, as Sally enjoyed a day there. Located in the heart of a tropical jungle on the area's natural lagoons, Mayakoba is an amazing back drop for a mystical spa journey reminiscent of the textures, colors and scents of the ancient Mayan culture. There are places to rest and reflect close to the elements the Mayans used hundreds of years ago to erect their monuments and temples. They used Conchera, a fossil stone, Sascab as their mortar, natural green marble from Guatemala and the magnificent wood of the Zapote tree. They’ve incorporated the same elements throughout the spa.The Riviera Maya forest spa provides private canopies for the treatment rooms, overlooking the treetops of the mangrove forest. The romantic spa suite is an opportunity to spend time with your loved one with optional side-by-side treatments. The locker areas feature Mexican gardens with outdoor Swiss showers and whirlpools. Sally luxuriated in a full-body chocolate wrap… yummm.

 Speaking of “yummm”, a dish that you will find is a regional favorite among the native Maya, as well as the general Mexican population throughout the Yucatan area is Pollo Pibil (a wonderful dish of chicken marinated in achiote and smoked, wrapped in banana leaves). I have noticed, in visiting Maya villages in the jungles that nearly everyone has an achiote tree (annatto) in the yard. The recipe for Pollo Pibil that follows is from a noted expert on regional Mexican cooking, Chef David Sterling who’s Los Dos Cooking School in Merida is the first cooking school in Merida devoted exclusively to the cuisine of the Yucatan. I like Chef Sterling’s recipe because it uses achiote paste, which is readily available in the U.S.

POLLO PIBIL
Pit-Smoked Chicken in Achiote Marinade

TRUE PIBIL DISHES (AS THE NAME SUGGESTS) ARE COOKED IN A PIB – a hand-dug pit in the ground lined with fiery coals and hot stones. Pibes also employ a roof that seals up the hole, which is then covered with earth. Meats cooked in a pib are wrapped in banana leaves, which seals in juices and flavor. The secret of the pib is that its roof locks in heat, steam and smoke, which makes pibil meats so tender and succulent, and gives them their smoky flavor. (Note about this recipe from Jack: I use a smoker with a water pan and wood chips to duplicate the effects of cooking in a pib). For this dish, we have created a stovetop method for achieving a similar result. We have also modernized the recipe somewhat by brining the chicken for a few hours, and by using bone-in chicken breasts instead of a whole bird. You may also use a whole chicken cut into parts.10 servings

• 4 quarts (4 liters) cold water
• 1/2 cup (130g) salt
• 1/2 cup (130g) sugar
• 5 whole allspice berries
• 1 tsp. (5ml) black peppercorns
• 10 chicken breast halves (including skin and bones) 

STEP 1 BRINE THE CHICKEN. Dissolve the salt and sugar in the water. Crush allspice and peppercorns in a mortar and pestle and add with chicken to the brine; refrigerate 4-5 hours. After the brining process, drain and rinse chicken under cold water and pat dry. Discard the brining solution.
• 8 Tbs. (120ml) recado rojo (achiote paste)*
• 8 Tbs. (120ml) juice of naranja agria (Also known as sour orange or Seville orange. Substitute: 2 parts fresh lime juice, 1 part each fresh orange juice and grapefruit juice) 

STEP 2 MAKE THE MARINADE. Dissolve the achiote paste in the juice. Use more juice if necessary to achieve the consistency of thick cream. In a molcajete or mortar and pestle,
• 1 Tbs. (15ml) dried Mexican oregano leaves (or 1 tsp/5 ml ground), toasted
• 1 tsp. (5ml) cumin, toasted
• 3 large cloves garlic, peeled and charred• 1 tsp. (5ml) black peppercorns
• 1 tsp. (5ml) sea salt 

STEP 3 IN A MOLCAJETE OR MORTAR AND PESTLE, coarsely grind the oregano, cumin, garlic, peppercorns and salt. Add to the recado mixture and stir thoroughly to incorporate. Pour over chicken and coat each piece thoroughly. (Note: If using homemade recado rojo, you may omit this step.)
• Banana leaves, cut into rectangles approximately 12 x 18 inches
• 2 green bell peppers, thinly sliced
• 1 large white onion, thinly sliced
• 2 large Roma tomatoes, sliced
• 1 bunch epazote, separated into leaves
• 2 Tbs. (10g) wood smoking chips, preferably mesquite

STEP 4 WRAP THE CHICKEN. Place one breast in the center of one banana leaf rectangle. Garnish with slices of the vegetables and the epazote leaves. Wrap the chicken with the banana leaf as you would a package, and tie with banana leaf spines or kitchen twine to secure. You may cook immediately or refrigerate overnight. Allow to come to room temperature before proceeding. 

STEP 5 FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS FOR STOVETOP SMOKING. Smoke 45 minutes, or until a meat thermometer registers 170° Fahrenheit (76° Celsius). Off heat, remove cover and let stand for 10-15 minutes before serving. Serve with Cebollas Encurtidas and Chile Tamulado.*Available in Mexican grocers or the ethnic sections of supermarkets. 

STOVETOP SMOKING INSTRUCTIONSYou will need:
• Large cast-iron Dutch oven or roasting pan with lid(NOTE: Because of the intense heat required for this dish, enameled iron cookware is not recommended.)
• Heavy-duty aluminum foil
• 10-12 inch cake rack (Must fit snugly in bottom of pot) 

STEP 1 WORKING WITH THE DUTCH OVEN OR ROASTING PAN, line sides and bottom with foil, using two or three pieces if necessary. Leave at least 6 inches of foil extending beyond the edge of the pot. Using a fork or sharp object, cut and tear away a small hole in the foil at the center of the bottom about 3 inches in diameter to expose the pot’s surface underneath. Line underside of lid with aluminum foil and crimp tightly around edges. Create “feet” for the cake rack with balls of foil. The rack should rest about 11/2 inches off the inside bottom surface of the pot. 

STEP 2 PLACE THE POT without cover or cake rack over highest heat on stovetop. Heat for 10 minutes. Have banana-wrapped meat at hand. When pan is pre-heated, place smoking chips called for in recipe on the pan’s surface where you cut away the foil. Immediately place rack at bottom of pot. Place meat packets onto rack, spacing evenly and allowing some space around packets so that steam and smoke can circulate. Put lid in place, and crimp edges of foil all around to create a tight seal.
Cook according to recipe instructions.

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CEBOLLAS ENCURTIDAS

Red Onions Pickled in Sour Orange Juice

ENCURTIR IN SPANISH MEANS "TO PICKLE." Usually served as a garnish, these pickled onions are delicious enough to eat by themselves! Along with Chile tamulado, cebollas encurtidas are part of the indispensable pair of condiments used on virtually all foods in Yucatán – like salt and pepper are to us. Purists prefer sour orange juice to do the pickling, but expense and the possibility of spoilage mean that most restaurants and take-out stalls use vinegar. Cooks keep big glass jars full of the onions, and replenish ingredients as needed. The garlic and chile may stay in the wonderfully fermenting stew for months.

• 2 pounds (1 kilo) medium red onions, thinly sliced and separated into rings

• 2 cups (500ml) juice of naranja agria (Also known as sour orange or Seville orange. Substitute: 2 parts fresh lime juice, 1 part each fresh orange juice and grapefruit juice)

• 1 Tbs. (20g) coarse salt (sea salt or Kosher)

• 5 whole cloves

• 5 whole pimienta gorda de Tabasco (English: allspice)

• 1 tsp. (4g) peppercorns, coarsely crushed

• 1 Tbs. (15ml) dried orégano Yucateco (Substitute: Mexican oregano) lightly toasted in a comal or heavy skillet and ground

• 1 large chile x’catik (Spanish: güero. Substitute: any “blond” chile such as yellow Italian or banana pepper), charred

• 1 large head garlic, charred

STEP 1 PLACE ALL INGREDIENTS in a large non-reactive bowl. Allow to macerate at room temperature for 1 hour.

STEP 2 REFRIGERATE. Cebollas encurtidas are best when prepared 2-3 days in advance. Before serving, allow to return to room temperature.

NOTE: Cebollas encurtidas will keep well under refrigeration for 1-2 weeks.

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CHILE TAMULADO

Fiery Habanero Table Salsa

THE BASIS OF THIS FIERY SAUCE IS THE HABANERO – considered to be one of the world’s hottest chiles. It ranks an impressive 250,000 to 350,000 Scoville Heat Units, making it the king of chiles. In recent years, new habanero hybrids have achieved even higher marks, such as the Red Savina, coming in at 500,000 units. But putting aside any macho one-upmanship, the habanero grown in Yucatán is searingly hot, as this sauce proves.
The habanero is Yucatán’s mascot; no meal is complete without a hefty portion. And it is in Yucatán where more of the chiles are grown, consumed and exported than anywhere in the world. This simple sauce is composed only of chile, sour orange juice and salt, all ground together in a tamul – the Mayan word for mortar and pestle.

• 6-8 medium green chiles habaneros (Substitute: Scotch bonnet chiles), charred, stems removed

• 1/4 cup (75ml) naranja agria (Also known as sour orange or Seville orange. Substitute: 2 parts lime juice, 1 part each orange juice and grapefruit juice)

• Pinch sea salt

STEP 1 PUT ALL INGREDIENTS IN A BLENDER. Cover with lid. Process until liquified.

CAUTION: When you remove the lid, step away from the blender and keep face turned. A very potent aroma that can cause you to cough will emanate from the blender.

STEP 2 PLACE IN A SMALL SERVING DISH; cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Bring to room temperature before serving.