UXMAL, State of Yucatan

Tell me what you know about the Maya 
and I’ll tell you what you know about Mexico.

The Temple of the Magician, believed by Mayans to be built overnight by a dwarf magician.

In an on-going effort to visit all of the dozens of Unesco World Heritage Sites in Mexico, I visited Uxmal on several occasions. It is a ruined Mayan city which, it is assumed, was founded between the year 500 A.D. and the year 700 A.D. I usually only spend a little more than an easy half day in the once-thriving city on each trip here.

Uxmal's Ball Court . . . a familiar fixture in most Mayan cities

Wandering the grounds of this complex, I highly recommend using a guide (available gathered in the entrance area and Information Center). I used guides on my first two visits here and they talked about the history of Uxmal. I can’t imagine how much I would have missed had I done it alone.

The view through a Mayan arch

The hardest thing to describe about Uxmal is the quiet. Not the quietness… but the quiet. As I wandered the compound, I was struck by the overwhelming sense of silence there. There were sounds… there were voices of tourists… there was a haunting sound of wind. But, above and through it all, it was quiet. It was a holy place, I felt. It was as though someone had blown a horn one morning and an entire civilization just got up and left. Eerie.

For nature enthusiasts who enjoy birds, Uxmal is as heavily populated today as it was when the inhabitants were Mayans. Even the non-exotic species here draw your attention more than they do at home. The trees surrounding the Pyramid of the Magician look, from a distance, like they are populated by huge dark bats hanging and waiting. A closer inspection, however, reveals that these are Oriole nests and are homes to the beautiful commonplace Oriole. Everything here takes on a surreal air.

A Turquoise-browed Motmot

Cisterns and wells were used to gather and hold water when this city was viable and a leaning peek into one of those caused me to leap backwards to avoid the escape flight of a frightened Motmot. As an amateur birder, I always love Mexico, as most of my birding experiences are in the United States and limited to species far less exotic than parrots and Motmots. While the colorful Motmot is Nicaragua’s national bird, they are found throughout the Yucatan area and south in Mexico and are characterized by a long slender tail with a heart-shaped feather at the end, which vibrates like a harp.

Motmot photo © Gerwin Filius

The Nunnery Quadrangle

Upon entering the Nunnery Quadrangle (a name given it by the Spaniards), which is a three-tiered government complex, I was struck by what looked like a large black garbage bag abandoned atop the tallest structure in the complex. Moving closer, I added another bird to my list as I approached (unsuccessfully) what turned out to be a huge King Vulture…not a garbage bag.

Climbing and exploring most of the
structures of Uxmal is allowed.

Climbing is allowed on some structures at Uxmal and some of the most dramatic views of the overall complex may be had from atop the tallest structures. The Gran Pyramide: (The Great Pyramid) is one of those tall buildings I climbed and the view is spectacular, but I will warn those of you with acrophobia that going up is easier than coming down. The old saying “Don’t look down!” doesn’t work when you have to look down to place your feet correctly. Look down or fall down.

It’s not my intent here to educate anyone about the history of the Maya…only to interest you in finding out more about them by traveling there. A visit to Uxmal is fun and instructive. It is only 78 km (48 miles) from Merida on the way to Campeche.

When you leave here, you will understand, far better, the roots and beginnings of the Mexico we love and visit today. However, if you stay in the area and you are lucky enough to meet a Mayan family and be invited to dinner, they might start off the meal with a botana of Sikil P'aak (Sikil Pak), a typical ancient Mayan dip of ground pumpkin seeds, tomato and onion.

Our friend David Sterling of LOS DOS Cooking School in Merida specializes in typical dishes of the Yucatan and he teaches this "slightly kicked up" version of Sikil Pak in his cooking school.

SIKIL P'AAK
Vegetable Dip of Toasted Squash Seeds, Roasted Tomatoes and Chile

ALSO KNOWN AS P'AAK I TSIKIL (p'aak is Maya for “tomato” and sikil means “squash seed”), this wonderful Mayan appetizer obviously dates to the pre-conquest era. The addition of cilantro and garlic are more modern treatments but these only serve to enhance the basically rich flavor. While this dish is delicious any time of year, it was traditionally served in the autumn, when pumpkin seeds were used to celebrate an abundant harvest.

 • 4 cups (500g) hulled green pepitas (squash or pumpkin seeds)
 • 1 green chile habanero, charred • 3 medium Roma tomatoes, charred on a comal or heavy skillet
 • 4 large cloves garlic, charred in a flame or on a comal or heavy skillet
 • 1/4 cup (75ml) juice of naranja agria (Also known as sour orange or Seville orange. Substitute: 2 parts fresh lime juice, 1 part each fresh orange juice and grapefruit juice)
 • 3/4 cup (200ml) chicken broth • 1 cup (150g) white onion, minced
 • 3 Tbs. (15g) cilantro, finely chopped • 1/8 tsp. (.625ml) canela (Substitute: Mexican cinnamon)
 • 1 tsp. (5ml) salt

  STEP 1 In a heavy skillet over high flame, lightly toast the seeds. Toss regularly during the process. They should be pale brown when finished. Remove toasted seeds to a large bowl. Allow to cool.

  STEP 2 Place seeds in a food processor and grind. Continue until the seeds turn to a fine powder that sticks loosely to the sides of the processor bowl. Use a spatula to push the congealing powder back into the processor bowl. Place toasted ground seeds in a mixing bowl until ready to use.

  STEP 3 Remove stem, seed, and devein the habanero. Place chile, whole tomatoes with skin and garlic in a blender, along with the juice and broth. Pulse until coarsely blended but not puréed.

  STEP 4 Pour the tomato Mixture a bit at a time into the mixing bowl containing the ground seeds. Blend with a spatula until thoroughly incorporated. If necessary, add more of the tomato mixture, mixing, until you achieve the consistency of a dip – thick but not dry.

  STEP 5 Add onions, cilantro, canela and salt to taste. Stir and check for seasonings.

  STEP 6 Place dip in a serving bowl. Garnish with a sprig of cilantro or a whole habanero if you wish. Serve with homemade Totopos (crispy fried tortilla triangles.)

Iguanas scamper in the rubble and rocks around the temples.